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A couple of questions from HUD 4150.2, App D

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TxArmadillo

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Professional Status
Certified General Appraiser
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Texas
Hey, gang, just a couple of questions on some material in 4150.2, App D. Just doing some late night reading and my sponsor isn't available. :flowers:

1. This question pertains to Electical Systems (page D-5).

"If the appliances present at the time of the inspection do not appear to be reasonable (undersized), determine if there is adequate amperage to run “standard” appliances, as per local code."

How do you determine "adequate amperage"? Use a multimeter of some sort?

2. This question pertains to Plumbing Systems (page D-5).

"Turn on several cold water faucets in the house to check water pressure and flow. Flushing a toilet at the same time will also reveal any weaknesses in water pressure."

I've frequently seen a drop in water pressure (flow rate decreases) in sinks when a toilet is flushed. Is this considered a reportable weakness in water pressure or would it have to be something more than this?

Thanks. :peace:
 
Number 1 would come into play if you notice every singe appliance appears to be for an RV. Mini fridge, mini microwave, Easy bake oven etc. That may imply that the electrical system sucks.

Number 2... how bad does the faucet flow get when you flush? If it stops, or goes to a drip than it's an issue. If it just slightly loses pressure but still seems adequate to wash your hands than I wouldn't care.
 
Number 1 would come into play if you notice every singe appliance appears to be for an RV. Mini fridge, mini microwave, Easy bake oven etc. That may imply that the electrical system sucks.

Number 2... how bad does the faucet flow get when you flush? If it stops, or goes to a drip than it's an issue. If it just slightly loses pressure but still seems adequate to wash your hands than I wouldn't care.
Anon, thanks for the clarifications. You're a god. :clapping:
 
Quick rule of thumb on electrical : 100 watts equals 1 amp. A quick look at the breaker box should tell you if there appears to be sufficient amperage for the home.
 
Quick rule of thumb on electrical : 100 watts equals 1 amp. A quick look at the breaker box should tell you if there appears to be sufficient amperage for the home.
Yeah, I normally use one of those nice $8 plugs with the colored lights to check circuits. It's a nice testing tool. But the "determining adequate amps" thing had me thinking I needed a multimeter. That's home inspector stuff that I didn't want to do (though we seem to be getting more and more into that realm).
 
Can't judge a book by it's cover. Some handy HO will upgrade the box only and nothing else, making it more dangerous. 60 amp fuses are dangerous. 100 amp box on a 60 amp system IS dangerous.
 
Anything other than an obvious fault (like no cover on the breaker box or lots of pennies near the fuses) is beyond the scope of an appraisers duties.
 
An ampmeter gives no usefull data for your purpose. It only shows the amps being drawn at the time you check it, not the maximum load of the house. You might have a 200 amp breaker panel in the house with a total of 300 amps of total breaker capacity. Only a portion is used at anyone time. If you are only feeding the house with a 50 amp capacity meter base (and line to the meter) you have a problem. This crops up when an old house is updated on the inside, but they did not add correct the entrance feed.

Most meters have a rating plate. Some small amperage units can be identified by shape and appearance. The entrance cable can be identified by size 2, 0, 00, 000, 0000, etc and with experience you can identify gross under capacity of overhead wires by sight.
 
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