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Aluminum wiring

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I've delt with aluminum wiring.FYI Initial problems indeed were with different expansion contraction rates, and aluminum wiring connnected to standard light switches and receptacles *designed for* copper wire. At connection, gaps would develop, and heat -produced by sparking- sometimes lead to fires, sometimes just a bad" receptacle.(a) Electrician can retrofit the connections inside @ box with a professional tool that squeezes aluminum wiring to new copper wiring, then use standard switches & receptacles(b) You can use specialized switches & receptacles designed for use with aluminum wiring - cost an extra buck or two per unit IIRC.(c) At direct wire appliances like dishwasher, or at light fixtures, either use pressure pigtail method, or join wires with a specialized "purple" screw on wire connector designed for copper/aluminum connections - connector contains what amounts to a corrosion inhibiting paste.
 
The difference in expansion and contraction is part of the problem, oxidation aka galvanic corrosion makes it worse. The galvanic corrosion when 2 different metals meet is another part of the problem. Both contribute to a poor connection which causes excess heat at the connection (which amplifies the expansion and contractions etc). There are connectors available to "cure" the problem, and as Riick mentions are typically purple for easy identification.

FWIW, there are numerous instances when metal plumbing and/or gas pipes need special fittings to avoid the same galvanic corrosion that occurs when 2 dissimilar metals are joined. Chemistry 101.
 
Of course you should pull out a couple of switch and plug boxes to check the wiring...RIGHT????
 
Of course you should pull out a couple of switch and plug boxes to check the wiring...RIGHT????

Or you can take the main panel cover off and look there.:icon_mrgreen:
 
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