What are remedies for ASBESTOS SIDING?

[Mike Boyd]

EPA fines for improper asbestos removal that result in air release of friable asbestos: Work stoppage and $10k per day of illegal release. It's cheaper to hire a company that's trained with this. Check out the EPA's "Purple Book" for info on removing asbestos.

Cheapest option: cover it well with something else. Asbestos isn't a problem unless it starts crumbling.

I agree with Smokey. The other option is to leave it alone if it is not crumbling or deteriorating. A paint on material called Elastomeric is probably the least expensive and available from many painting contractors.

 

[Charles Knutson]

Transite is the name of asbestos cement siding. It is considered one of the least hazardous forms of asbestos, since it is not naturally friable. Drilling, sawing, or otherwise pulverizing the transite releases the fibers -- but other than that, it is relatively stable.

Bob Vila says this:

http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library/What_is_Asbestos_-Safety-A2092.html

When is asbestos a hazard?
Asbestos is not always an immediate hazard. In fact, if asbestos can be maintained in good condition, it is recommended that it be left alone and periodic surveillance performed to monitor its condition. It is only when asbestos containing materials (ACM) are disturbed or the materials become damaged that it becomes a hazard. When the materials become damaged, the fibers separate and may then become airborne. In the asbestos industry, the term ‘friable’ is used to describe asbestos that can be reduced to dust by hand pressure. ‘Non-friable’ means asbestos that is too hard to be reduce to dust by hand. Non-friable materials, such as transite siding and floor tiles are not regulated provided it does not become friable. Machine grinding, sanding and dry-buffing are ways of causing non-friable materials to become friable.

There are six different minerals that are classified as asbestos:

tremolite, anthophyllite, actinolite, crocidolite, amosite, and chrysotile.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asbestos

Chrysotile is used more than any other type and accounts for about 95% of the asbestos found in buildings in America. Applications where chrysotile might be used include the use of joint compound. It is more flexible than amphibole types of asbestos; it can be spun and woven into fabric. Chrysotile, like all other forms of industrial asbestos, has produced tumors in animals. Mesotheliomas have been observed in people who were occupationally exposed to chrysotile, family members of the occupationally exposed, and residents who lived close to asbestos factories and mines. ...

Asbestos from natural geologic deposits is known as "Naturally Occurring Asbestos" (NOA). Health risks associated with exposure to NOA are not yet fully understood, and current US federal regulations do not address exposure from NOA. Many populated areas are in proximity to shallow, natural deposits which occur in 50 of 58 California counties and in 19 other U.S. states. ...

Large portions of Fairfax County, Virginia were also found to be underlain with tremolite. The county monitored air quality at construction sites, controlled soil taken from affected areas, and required freshly developed sites to lay 6 inches of clean, stable material over the ground.

There are two methods of asbestos abatement -- encapsulation and removal. Encapsulation (sealing in place) is the least expensive of the two; installation of vinyl, metal, or other siding materials is one treatment for transite siding.

http://www.vtacgroup.com/global_encasement.htm

GE-MPE is a clear, flexible, water-based, non-toxic multi-purpose encapsulant for Transite Siding and Roofing and surfaces where tenacious adhesion is needed to safely lock Asbestos fibers or Lead dust in-place. It is an excellent pre- and post-removal encapsulant.

I removed transite siding from my home -- it had to be double bagged in special 6 mil plastic bags, each sealed with duct tape. The bags were delivered to an asbestos disposal company, who trucked them to a landfill in Utah. My total cost was less than $200, because I did the work myself -- which is legal for an SFR home owner.

A property across the street is built of prestressed concrete, and it has asbestos containing materials in the exterior stucco coating. Estimates for removal were $70k, which included tenting off the entire building (it's a 25 x 50 ft two story). Encapsulation would be the cheapest route, but that would limit the redevelopment opportunities.

 

[Mountain Man]

I agree with Smokey. The other option is to leave it alone if it is not crumbling or deteriorating. A paint on material called Elastomeric is probably the least expensive and available from many painting contractors.

Ditto 3. Many of the 1940's and 50's cottages in my area have this siding. We've done nothing more than caulk to encapsulate it, and paint. It is not a problem unless some dumb ax decides to pull some shingles off and smash them with a hammer.

 

[2008 KC Royals]

If there is a Sutherlands near you they sell siding that is identical to the asbestos tiles that are typical around here. If I remember correctly it cost about $60 for an 8 pack of 1 x 2 tiles. It is a good solution if you have just a few you need to replace.

 

[Restrain]

Unless it is specifically required by the state, leave the stuff alone. It's a good siding, and easily painted and maintained. Asbestos is only dangerous in an airborn form, usually from insualtion around pipes, etc. These homes sell all day long in Texas with no remediation. Haven't seen a market resistance, either.

 

[Mr Rex]

The old "Transite" asbestos siding was superior to the current "cement Fiber" sidings IMHO. Keep it painted and caulked, it will likely last for ever. Its extremely brittle, and driving a nail through it can be a challenge, as it is harder than alot of nails and will reject them . If it were a rental etc, I would maintain it as is, if you are looking to sell and are getting some resistance, I might cover over with vinyl or cement fiber siding to diminish or eliminate any possibility of stigma, as encapsulation is certainly cheaper than professional removal. Nail guns seem to have no problem with penetrating the stuff, hand nailing is a SOB. Personal experience.

 

[Mike Boyd]

Charles says that asbestos siding is called TRANSITE. Would anyone like to guess how many MILES of transite pipe is used for water mains? Gives a whole new meaning to...."If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

 

[STEVE COOPER]

I own a house with that siding. I hate it personally, but understand it is not dangerous at all unless smashed or drilled into. The problem is it can crack. My house has has many pieces that are missing chunks out of it and it looks ugly. I have loosley looked into getting stucco replaced over it, but the only quote I got said that the siding had to be removed first.....Not intersted in that. If anyone knows for sure that stucco could go over that siding I think I would be very interested.

 

[Charles Knutson]

Steve --

I think your house would be a good candidate for synthetic stucco over styrofoam. They can glue the styrofoam to the siding and apply the coating on top of that. I'd seal the exterior with one of the encapsulation paints that have been mentioned, and then install the system over that.

The problems with Dryvit and other brands of synthetic stucco come from direct application of the styrofoam to exterior plywood sheathing. This creates an exterior vapor barrier, which traps moisture in the walls, which can lead to the growth of black microbial stuff that will remain unmentioned.

The cure for this is to provide ventilation space between the exterior substrate and the styrofoam. If there is metal vent strip attached at the bottom and a complimentary vent at the soffit, the irregular surface of the transite siding should give enough airflow to prevent moisture problems. Installing the traditional stucco black roofing paper between the sheathing and styrofoam is another way to create a ventilation space.

You could also have the installers put the styrofoam substrate on a framing system that is designed to vent synthetic stucco, which should be more than enough to avoid moisture problems. I'd use styrofoam at least 1 inch thick, maybe even 1.5 or 2 inches -- to make sure it's stiff enough to avoid waves in the final surface.

Talk to some contractors -- be sure to ask about ventilation for Dryvit systems.

 

[murray stroupe]

Re

Have a screening or a phase I done first, cost may be only a few hundred dollars depending. Then stand by with a large check book to have the problems remediated (did I spell that right). I would think you would want to go with removal.

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Don't know so i hit the spell checker;
it is now.My spell checker and a lot of them aren't worth a flip when it comes to names, or nicknames.